A breathtaking early winter morning at the peak of White Stone Pass.

Thung Khe Pass, Hoa Binh – The White Stone Hill: A Magical Nordic Snow Moon Amidst Vietnam's Northwest

An Ink Wash Painting

The rocky mountain landscape appears as if covered in a blanket of pristine white snow. Thung Khe Pass (White Stone Pass) winds and curves like a soft silk ribbon draped across the mountainside, appearing and disappearing magically in the early morning mist.

The majestic stretch of Thung Khe Pass features towering mountains on one side and gentle slopes leading to lush green valleys on the other.

The panoramic view of the white stone pass road, seen from above, is as beautiful as a scene from a historical drama.

This year, winter arrived late but swiftly, bringing with it biting northerly winds and the characteristic chill of the high mountains of the Northwest. The journey to the source unfolded rapidly, with roads leading to passes, and rice fields giving way to forests that stretched to the foot of the mountains. Far in the distance, the Hoàng Liên mountain range stood deep and silent, watching as a convoy of vehicles snaked their way up the mountain slopes.

The pass road, like a soft silk ribbon draped across the mountainside, connects Mai Chau and Tan Lac districts in Hoa Binh province. Thung Khe Pass is approximately 120 km from Hanoi, situated at an altitude of over 1,000 meters above sea level. In the early mornings or late evenings, the pass is often enveloped in a breathtaking sea of mist and clouds.

Thung Khe Pass, or 'White Stone Pass' as locals often call it, earned its name when the mountains were cleared to expand National Highway 6. Limestone fragments, sliding down from the mountain peaks and scattering across the slopes, created a stunning natural masterpiece. The entire area is covered in a pristine white, resembling snow-capped mountains found in Europe.

You absolutely must step onto the mountain edge shown in the photo, as this spot offers one of the most stunning photos of the entire journey.

Spotting a loving couple, hand-in-hand, taking photos of each other halfway up a rocky outcrop, I approached to strike up a conversation. Mr. Phan Ha Tien, a worker at Thang Long Industrial Park, cheerfully explained that his company had temporarily halted production due to a lack of work, waiting for new materials. They were taking the opportunity to ride their motorbikes to Dien Bien for a trip, and he was introducing his girlfriend to his family along the way. This was their first stop to rest, enjoy the scenery, and relax after their long journey from Dong Anh (Hanoi).

We'd heard so much about the scenery here, but truly, you have to see it with your own eyes to fully appreciate its grandeur and overwhelming natural beauty. We had to carefully climb to the top of the rocky peak to take in the expansive views across the valley and gaze at the winding pass that brought us here – it's an absolutely amazing feeling," added his girlfriend, Lan Anh.

Conquering Thung Khe Pass on a winter's day to experience the thick, dense fog and the biting cold is a truly unique experience.

In winter, Thung Khe Pass is often dubbed the 'Nordic hill' of Hoa Binh, with its enchanting, heart-stirring beauty that is simply breathtaking.

Indeed, when you see the panoramic view, you might not be able to tell if it's snow or simply the white color of the limestone.

Wandering travelers on their journey to the Northwest simply cannot miss stopping at the White Stone Outcrop, less than a hundred meters from the summit of Thung Khe Pass.

A group of young friends also chose the White Stone Outcrop as a stop on their short, adventurous student trip. Tran Thuy Vang Anh excitedly shared that she was very impressed upon arriving here after navigating the hairpin bends, catching glimpses of the stark white pass summit, appearing and disappearing in the mist – it's truly an extraordinary beauty.

“Go up a little further,” Vang Anh exclaimed, “at the top of the pass, there’s a row of roadside stalls with so many delicious local dishes. They have grilled skewers, roasted sweet potatoes, boiled corn… holding them in your hands feels both warm and tasty!”

Indeed, what could be more delightful than sitting at a small stall overlooking the valley, savoring fragrant and warm rustic dishes like hot boiled corn or savory, fatty grilled meat skewers by a glowing fire, and sipping on a strong, fermented rice wine (rượu cần), a specialty of Hoa Binh, to complement the flavors?

Or, even simpler, enjoying a packet of peanut candy with a steaming hot cup of tea amidst the biting chill of early winter – it feels nothing short of a heavenly paradise on Earth.

Many backpackers flock here to witness the beauty of Thung Khe Pass, and their long-awaited efforts are certainly not in vain.

At the summit of the pass, roadside stalls sell local produce and serve as a convenient stop for countless travelers.

Ms. Hoang Thi Duyen, a local resident, occasionally fanned the charcoal to make it glow brighter and disperse the white smoke rising from the smoldering corn husks. Ms. Duyen shared that here, you can experience all four seasons – spring, summer, autumn, and winter – in a single day.

Her business provides a decent income; on average, she welcomes dozens of customers daily, including quite a few foreign visitors passing through during this season.

“They usually come in groups of 4-5 people on motorbikes, stopping here on their journey to explore the Northwest Highlands, to admire the scenery and enjoy our simple local specialties,” Ms. Duyen explained.

Thung Khe Pass is also a fantastic scenic stop, perfect for resting and taking some Instagram-worthy photos.

“Near the top of the pass, there’s a ‘Sharp Rocky Outcrop’ with the national flag planted on its peak. Children often love to go up there to admire the view and take photos. I constantly have to remind them to climb carefully because the limestone is very soft and fragile, especially during rain and wind,” Ms. Duyen said with concern.

Indeed, climbing onto the precarious rocky outcrop offers a panoramic view of the majestic pass and the valley below, but it is extremely dangerous. I believe local authorities should install signs to restrict access and warn tourists.

Getting back into the car to continue the journey, photographer Tran The Phong expressed regret, wishing the group could have stopped for another while at the top of the pass. He felt he could have captured even more incredible photos, especially of the lively local life, with tourists bustling around, huddling for warmth by the fires with roasted sweet potatoes and boiled corn, and getting a full panoramic shot of the 'Snowy Mountain Outcrop' from earlier – that would have been truly amazing...

I empathized and reassured him, 'It's alright, sometimes incomplete experiences only make us want to return, and return many more times, to leisurely and freely admire this beautiful, ethereal landscape, like a heavenly paradise.'

Well, it's all about fate then. We'll definitely be back on another trip, for sure!

Phu Tho 6146 view

Update day : 21/12/2023